It was too late when I found out that my neck-warmer that I'm currently doing will probably not fit to my DH, simply because I head on with the project without checking my tension gauge.
So to stop feeling like an idiot, and spare me from frogging again.... I went to search the net for answers to my "tension problem". So far these are the things I've learned, please feel free to correct me if I misunderstood some of what I've read, as I am still learning, will probably update this as I learned more about crochet and knitting.
- Terms: tension gauge is used by US, and tension swatch is used by UK.
- Tension swatch is important because you'll be able to determine the right size you need for a project.
- That it is calculated by the number of stitches horizontally and vertically. This will tell you how many stitches and how many it will give you on a 10cm.
- Getting the correct tension and done all through-out your project will give a neat look.
- It also determines your number of yarn usage, whether you crochet tighter or looser, than what the tension guide requires you. This is very important, because the goal here is have the same size as to what the designer has calculated the number yarn you need for a specific projects.
- * to make a crochet and knit tension gauge or tension swatch..
Crochet -"Work a tension swatch of 20 sts plus 2 (the 2 end stitches are slightly distorted and should not be included when checking a tension), and 22 rows in length. Fasten off. Lay this swatch down on a flat surface and measure it - first horizontally within first and last stitch for stitch tension (Fig.128 - Note: diagram shows only 5 cms) and then vertically for row tension (Fig.129). If your square has too few stitches or rows to the measurement, your tension is too loose and you should try again with a size smaller hook. If it has too many stitches try a size larger hook.
- Knitting - "If the tension quoted is, for example, “22 stitches and 30 rows = 10 cms square measured over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles”, you have to produce a fabric made up of that number of stitches and rows regardless of the needle size you use. The needle size indicated on the pattern is the one most knitters will use to achieve this tension, but it is the tension that is important, not the needle size.The instructions given in the tension paragraph of a knitting pattern are either for working in stocking stitch or pattern stitch. If they are given in pattern stitch, you must work a multiple of stitches the same as the multiple required in the pattern. If the instructions are given in stocking stitch, any number can be cast on but whichever method is used, it should always be enough to give at least two extra stitches each side, as the edges of a knitting sample will curl and not give an accurate measurement.Work in pattern or stocking stitch, casting on the number of stitches given in the tension paragraph, plus 4 (i.e. 26 stitches) and work 34 rows or 4 rows more than the number stated. Break the yarn about 15 cms from the work, thread this end through the stitches, and then remove the knitting needle. Place a pin vertically into the fabric 2 stitches from one side edge. Measure 10 cms exactly and insert a second pin (Fig.47 - Note: diagram shows only 5 cms). Count the stitches. On stocking stitch, each loop represents one stitch. If the number of stitches between the pins is less than that specified in the pattern (even by half a stitch), your garment will be too large. Change to smaller needles and knit another tension sample. If your sample has more stitches over 10 cms, the garment will be too small. Change to larger needles. Check the number of rows knitted against the given tension also (Fig.48). Tension samples should never be measured on the needles because the needle distorts the fabric."
*from TB Ramsden & Co.


No comments:
Post a Comment