Saturday, July 28, 2007

Starbucks Bottle Carrier

Please bear with me as I try to give justice on presenting this project I made using my very own pattern for the first time. I am so happy to have made this bottle carrier, as this is my very own pattern - couldn't have stress that enough. smile_tongue

I made it without any pattern or adapting other creative people's work. I was challenge to do this because I told myself that I can't always depend on other people's work and echo them on my blog. It's time that I should also post a project that I can really call my work. This may sound so plain to most of you, but it really feels good that accomplishing such tasks is very rewarding and addictive.

Here are the details of the project. I'll try to make the pattern as comprehensible as possible. So, please pardon me if there are areas that are not clear as I am new to this - pattern writing. You are free to use this pattern, just don't post this patten stating as your own, just indicate and put a link to my blog. You can email me if you have any questions. smile_teeth

Project: Starbucks Bottle Carrier

Pattern: Jinky Flaviano

Materials: Scheepjeswol - Ahoy 55% Wool, 35% Viscose 10% Chlorofibre in Moss green

1. Make an adjustable ring.

2. Then make 18 dc and don't close. Continue doing the rounds until you have the bottom has the same size as the starbucks bottom.

3. Make 5 sc then make 2 sc on the same stitch, all through out the round.

4. Make 6 sc then make 2 sc on the same stitch, all through out the round.

5. Make sc all through out until you reaches the wider part of the lower portion of the tumbler.

6. To make the yarn hug the body of the tumbler, do 5 sc, and make sc2together on next stitch

7. Do 6 sc and make sc2together on the next stitch.

8. Make sc all through out until you reaches the top wider part of the tumbler.

9. This time repeat the steps 3-4

10. Make a sl st then sc on the same beginning stitch, ch 3 sk 2 sp 2 sc continue all all round.

11. Sl st, sc on the same beginning stitch ch 1 3 sc on the ch-3 repeat .

12. Weave ends.

For the drawstring.

1. Ch 150, and sl st on the 2nd st from hook, do sl st all through out the row.

2. Weave the drawstring on the open stitches made same with the other on the opposite side. Knot both ends of the string and Weave Ends.


I hope my DH like his starbucks bottle carrier I made especially for him. kiss

Here are the step by step photo I took last night.

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Monday, July 23, 2007

city night - Riyadh

Just wanted to post this photo. I wanted to capture the full moon that night, but because I was mobile, my family and I were going some place - can't remember where, probably to Ikea - I did not get a decent shot of the moon hence this view.

I just love the view and how the shot has turned out. Enjoy the view.

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Sunday, July 22, 2007

been out for awhile...

Pardon me, for being unattentive and ignoring you, I've been very busy and waiting to have some "blog-worthy" to write.

At the moment, I just finished my DH's neck warmer, others called it neck tube-scarf. I followed the instructions from bellaonline on how to make a neck warmer, she gave a formula so you can customize the neck warmer you want to make.

I mentioned this project in my previous blog, - didn't make any gauge, so I redo the whole thing.

The materials I used are:

Yarn: Therma Nouva Yarn from Lang

Hook size: Susan Bates 6.5mm and 5mm

Then when I reach almost the top around 9 rounds more, I change the hook to a smaller one, so to fit and will not fall down to his neck when he wants to cover his nose.

Another project I just finished last night was a poncho. I made this for my eldest DD. I used luv2crochet pattern - lacy shell poncho and used the following materials:

Yarn: Steinbach Wolle 100% acrylic

Hook size: 6.5mm and 5mm ( for the the flower)

The poncho took me about 3 days to finish, although I know I can finish it in one sitting, it's just that I don't have help here at home, and I do all the chores, plus teaching my two daughters in their you can just imagine how busy I am at home.

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Saturday, July 07, 2007

done...cross stitch works.

Just wanted to show you these pictures of my earlier cross stitch works. I can't load this to my slides because the files are already uploaded in my picasa web album and been deleted.
Hooray, posted them already on my web album in picasa.

These photos were already on my earlier posts but didn't put much details into it, so here it goes.
The first photo is a DMC pattern am not sure the exact title but it has something to do with "spring", I think. I started it while I was in Manila and was already not working then (year 2004), but was able to finished it when I got to Riyadh sometime last quarter of 2005.

The second photo is called Unicorn, started and finished it when I was still in Manila (year 2003), good thing, I decided not to have it frame way back then, as I will not be able to bring it with me. I'll hang this in my kids room, cause both of my girls love horses. I'm sure the'll be delighted.

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Friday, July 06, 2007

learning something new everyday

This tension swatch thing is bugging me for a week now. It started after I finished my first ripple baby blanket, and announced to the whole world that I don't know how to make a tension gauge or sometimes called tension swatch. I felt that if I skip the tension swatch thing, it will save me time and be done with my latest project. This is not true...

It was too late when I found out that my neck-warmer that I'm currently doing will probably not fit to my DH, simply because I head on with the project without checking my tension gauge.

So to stop feeling like an idiot, and spare me from frogging again.... I went to search the net for answers to my "tension problem". So far these are the things I've learned, please feel free to correct me if I misunderstood some of what I've read, as I am still learning, will probably update this as I learned more about crochet and knitting.

  1. Terms: tension gauge is used by US, and tension swatch is used by UK.
  2. Tension swatch is important because you'll be able to determine the right size you need for a project.
  3. That it is calculated by the number of stitches horizontally and vertically. This will tell you how many stitches and how many it will give you on a 10cm.
  4. Getting the correct tension and done all through-out your project will give a neat look.

  5. It also determines your number of yarn usage, whether you crochet tighter or looser, than what the tension guide requires you. This is very important, because the goal here is have the same size as to what the designer has calculated the number yarn you need for a specific projects.
  6. * to make a crochet and knit tension gauge or tension swatch..

    Crochet -"
    Work a tension swatch of 20 sts plus 2 (the 2 end stitches are slightly distorted and should not be included when checking a tension), and 22 rows in length. Fasten off. Lay this swatch down on a flat surface and measure it - first horizontally within first and last stitch for stitch tension (Fig.128 - Note: diagram shows only 5 cms) and then vertically for row tension (Fig.129). If your square has too few stitches or rows to the measurement, your tension is too loose and you should try again with a size smaller hook. If it has too many stitches try a size larger hook.

  • Knitting - "If the tension quoted is, for example, “22 stitches and 30 rows = 10 cms square measured over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles”, you have to produce a fabric made up of that number of stitches and rows regardless of the needle size you use. The needle size indicated on the pattern is the one most knitters will use to achieve this tension, but it is the tension that is important, not the needle size.The instructions given in the tension paragraph of a knitting pattern are either for working in stocking stitch or pattern stitch. If they are given in pattern stitch, you must work a multiple of stitches the same as the multiple required in the pattern. If the instructions are given in stocking stitch, any number can be cast on but whichever method is used, it should always be enough to give at least two extra stitches each side, as the edges of a knitting sample will curl and not give an accurate measurement.Work in pattern or stocking stitch, casting on the number of stitches given in the tension paragraph, plus 4 (i.e. 26 stitches) and work 34 rows or 4 rows more than the number stated. Break the yarn about 15 cms from the work, thread this end through the stitches, and then remove the knitting needle. Place a pin vertically into the fabric 2 stitches from one side edge. Measure 10 cms exactly and insert a second pin (Fig.47 - Note: diagram shows only 5 cms). Count the stitches. On stocking stitch, each loop represents one stitch. If the number of stitches between the pins is less than that specified in the pattern (even by half a stitch), your garment will be too large. Change to smaller needles and knit another tension sample. If your sample has more stitches over 10 cms, the garment will be too small. Change to larger needles. Check the number of rows knitted against the given tension also (Fig.48). Tension samples should never be measured on the needles because the needle distorts the fabric."

*from TB Ramsden & Co.

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